My New Green with Envy Pant Coat

I have never been one to be up with the latest fashions.  Instead I tend to choose classic style clothing that can be worn for several years.  One of the reasons for this is I simply hate shopping and that includes shopping for clothes.   Our primary residence is in Ontario, Canada so needless to say warm winter coats are a must.  I have a gorgeous long coat (pink silk lined, grey wool melton cloth) for dressier type events during the winter.  It has served me well for over 10 years and still looks good!  Since it is only used a few times throughout the winter this coat will last me several more years.  I have my university leather jacket as my main short winter coat.  It has a heavy liner that can be zipped in for extra warmth.  It's old and nostalgic but very much me.  I did not have an in between length even though there have been several times a dressy mid-length would have been quite welcomed.  The other day I finally decided on a whim and because the coat I saw was at an excellent price ($29.99), to splurge on a new mid-length dressier pant coat. 

I chose a Green with Envy Enlightened Outerwear coat.  The picture doesn't really do it justice as the coat is quite nice.  The coat is double breasted with a stand collar and a lot of extra detail, very much shorter trench coat style in my favourite steel grey.  I love steel grey as a colour for blazers and dress coats because I wear a lot of black.  The grey compliments the black nicely and grey tends to not go out of style.  I also liked the coat because it was wool melton cloth.  Melton cloth is a heavy weight, tightly woven fabric usually wool.  The traditional colours are navy blue, hunter green, steel grey and sand.  It is an extremely durable fabric that will keep it's good looks for several years!  Melton cloth is a very practical and frugal choice of material for coats.  I can remember my very first melton cloth coat, a navy blue pant coat with hood, that my Mom bought me when I was about 8 years old.  I've been hooked on melton cloth ever since.

Green with Envy is a line of outerwear launched by Amerex Group in 2008 originally sold in Macy's but is now making its way to Sam's Club.  The premise is you can have nicely designed clothes that are good for the environment as well.  The wool fabric is made from recycled wool using garment dyes that are better for the environment.  The tags are printed with soy ink on 100% recycled paper.  Amerex Group is socially responsible as well by donating 1% of Green with Envt's yearly earnings to 1% For The Planet.  Once you are finished wearing your coat you can send it back to them to be donated to those less fortunate or to be recycled into new coats. 

While the thought of returning the coat for donating or recycling is nice, it really is not an eco-friendly solution as shipping involves fuel that adds to your carbon footprint.  A better solution is to donate the coat at the local level.  There are a wide range of charities that accept donations of coats with one of the most notable in our area being Coats for Kids.  I'm on the petite side so any of my unused clothing would easily fit a smaller teenager. 

Garden Gnome
©2006-2011

Old Man Winter is a Howling!

Old Man Winter is a howling and yet we can't complain since autumn has been rather on the mild side.  As a result we have only used our natural gas fireplace a few times.  We haven't put the furnace on yet which is nice.  Yesterday we had a large, rather nasty storm cell go through.  It was not near as bad as they were predicting.  The winds were high but at least here I don't think they hit the speeds predicted.

This is the time of year where my mind turns to winterizing.  I'm over the busiest part of the canning season so aside of canning dried beans, soups and stews can focus on winterizing.  This year will be a bit different in that the house is up for sale and a good chunk of the draft sealing has already been done.  Since it has been milder we will leave the upper screened sunporch open a bit longer that will help with any viewings without hurting our pocket book.  Still the caulking gun is right handy ready to use anytime I find a draft.  I'm thinking of hanging quilted covers on the windows this year as well.  They will look nice for house showings yet serve a practical function.  More on those to come.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2010

It's That Time of Year

Summer is half over here!  The gardening is producing nicely and I've been busy restocking the pantry with lots of home canned goodies.  Today I'm canning maple blueberry conserves, peach lavender jam and peach chutney.  As I've been getting all my supplies ready my mind has been wandering towards how the new TOU hydro prices that will come into effect in our area on September 8 will affect us.  At the same time the price of natural gas will likely see some type of increase just in time for the heating season.  The added new HST of 8% extra on home heating fuel is also a concern. 

While the canner runs churning out good food for the year or so to come I use my down time to identify a few projects that need being done before winter  giving a higher priority to those that will help save a bit of hydro or natural gas.  Topping the list are 2 on demand water heaters, one of which will eliminate about and 70' run to get hot water to the kitchen.  I am also hoping to get one solar tube installed and the first part of our solar system.  We are also planning on installing storm doors on the house.  So the winterizing ideas are coming in full tilt right now while the caulking gun is seeing a bit more action.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2010

Replacing Metal Single Use Canning Lids with Tattler Reusable Lids

Home Canned Organic Green Beans

August 6, 2010 

Food preservation and reducing energy consumption are two ongoing household activities here.  August tends to be one of the busiest months for home canning although it spills over into September as well.  A few days ago I canned organic green beans purchased from a local organic farm.  The white lids are a special type of reusable canning lid called Tattler.  I bought 3 dozen to run several tests before committing to making a larger purchase.  If I am pleased with results of the Tattler lids and preliminary results have been quite impressive I will be phasing out the metal single use lids for all canning except jars intended for gift giving.  Each Tattler lid is 8 X the cost of the metal lids at my lowest price which means each lid will have to be reused at least 8 times before I realize a payback.  Why is this important?

• Concern has been expressed that at some point the metal single use Snap lids will not be available.  Like many home canners I am concerned about this problem.  Switching to a reusable lid ensures I have a way to can even if the metal lids become unavailable.
• All canning lids in North America are coated with a plastic that contains Bisphenol-A (BPA).  The reusable lids while made of a heavy plastic aare BPA free.
• Using reusable lids will greatly reduce the metal and packaging for coming into our house.  I can somewhere between 1,000 and 1,400 jars of food each year.  All my jars are reusable which means I keep that amount of plastic and metal food containers from coming into the house.  A reusable lid simply makes a lot of sense.  I question why this hasn't caught on before especially since the company has been in business since 1976.
• The regular metal Snap lids weigh about half that of the Tattler reusables.  However, since Tattler lids are reusable they are only shipped once unlike the shipping costs involved with keeping a supply of Snap lids on hand.  The shipping costs are built into the Snap lids but because they are an ongoing purchase the effects of shipping adds to our carbon footprint.
• I estimate I will need at least 500 Tattler reusable lids but in reality will buy 600 to provide a safety net.  While I can 1,000 and 1,400 jars of food each year there is not that number of jars just sitting on the shelves waiting to be used.  The reason for this is the food is rotated and once I get a box or two of empty jars during the off season I will fill them with something else.  Now the beauty of this is as the jars become empty so too will the lids and rubber rings so I won't have to worry about.  The lids and rubber rings can go right into the box so the reusable lids won't create a storage problem.  If anything they will reduce the number of disposable metal lids I need to keep on hand.
• Switching to reusable lids adds one more level of self-sufficiency.  I won't be dependent on the stores to carry the lids or having to find a supplier.
•  Cost is always a factor in home canning.  I pay on average $150 annually for canning lids that are single use.  A 500 pack size of the Tattler reusable lids will cost me $300 plus what I've already spent.  On the surface that looks like a pay back period of 2 uses but it isn't as I figure it will take 8 uses to realize the payback which really means about 2 years of use.  I will still have to buy a few packages of metal lids each year for jars given as gifts but that should reduce my cost to under the $10 mark.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2010

More Electrical Outlet Sealing

Electrical outlets can result a considerable source of air leakage and infiltration. A couple of posts ago I discussed sealing and insulating electrical switches on outside walls. This is necessary to eliminate as much air infiltration as possible thus reducing drafts. If you take a good look at the actual metal or plastic box though it is quickly apparent that caulking around electrical box and adding insulating foam will only solve part of the problem. That is because electrical boxes have several holes in which you can choose where to run wires through. Ideally spraying expandable spray foam around the outside of the electrical box would seal around the box to the point that all drafts would be stopped. However, do not be tempted to use expandable spray foam insulation to seal electrical outlets. The expandable spray foam is flammable until cured and at some point that outlet may require work on it which the cured expandable spray foam would make almost impossible. There is a way to deal with any minor air filtration that comes through the plug holes though.

Safety Plugs

All outer wall pugs must have something plugged into them to prevent air infiltration during the colder months. Now the natural choice for something to plug in is an electrical appliance but that is not always convenient. Onto the scene comes a nice product that cuts any air infiltration through the outlet holes yet it is usually sold as a safety device to prevent children from electrocuting themselves playing with electrical outlets. These safety plug protectors come in clear, white, ivory and brown. A pack of 10 will cost $1 at the dollar stores or you can pay a bit extra at the discount stores. They all work the same. I like the larger clear ones pictured as the tabs on the white ones pictured tend to break off after repeated removal. The main downside to these inexpensive safety plug protectors is removing them for using the plug. Once you get the knack of it you can pop them out anytime you need to use the plug.

Installed

No special tools are required for installation. Installation is as simple as plugging the plastic safety guard into each outlet. Unless you have small children and you are installing these safety guards for energy conservation then the only outlets you need to be concerned about are on your outside walls. For the most part aside of not having any drafts and the occasional having to remove them to use the outlet you won't even notice they are there. There is no need to remove the safety guards during nicer weather either unless you are using the outlet.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

Cold Busters

My childhood home was definitely not energy efficient! It was a small 2-story home with dirt floor walk-out basement. The gas hot water tank was in the basement. My Mom kept bushels of apples, potatoes and home canned foods down in the basement aka dungeon. The main level was heated by 2 natural gas space heaters and I can still remember my Mom's excitement when one of the space heaters was replaced with a new model with a blower. A very steep, narrow staircase led to the upstairs with 2 bedrooms separated by the staircase landing. Cut into the landing there was an opening with a metal grate to let heat up from the main floor. On the narrow end of the landing there was a deep spot where my Mom kept a huge cedar chest to store out of season clothes and behind that was an entrance to one attic. Over top of the stairwell was the entrance to the other attic that we got into by spanning a 2" x 12" plank between the opening and landing then crawling across the stairwell. During the cold winter months the windows were usually covered with beautiful frost created by Jack Frost and large icicles hung from the roof. Many a morning I scorched my backside sitting or leaning on the space heater near the stairwell door!

I honestly think people have become very spoiled with keeping their homes so warm they have forgotten how to dress for winter. When I was growing up September 1 meant no more bare feet and as soon as snow hit boots and winter outdoor clothing were the rule. My Mom also insisted on us wearing under shirts combined with leotards aka tights or one piece thermal underwear aka long johns under our clothes. She also insisted we wore sweaters, slippers and bed socks. At one time nightcaps were always worn but my Mom didn't insist we wear one which was a good thing because I can't stand anything on my head! Now all of that is considered a bit old fashioned! Instead of dressing warmly in the house it is easier to turn the thermostat higher. The problem with turning the thermostat higher is the environmental and financial costs! In my quest to become more eco-friendly I refuse to turn the thermostat any higher than 20ºC (68ºF) during the day and 17ºC (63ºF) at night.

Slippers

I'm a big fan of slippers! I make several pairs of slippers each year using my favourite slipper pattern. Hand knit slippers keep your feet warm and toasty while allowing your feet to breath. They wash beautifully as well. During the winter months I pair the slippers with thick socks usually funky fluffy socks or on really cold days wool socks. You can't beat wool socks for warmth!

When sleeping I still wear bed socks (not pictured) to keep my feet warm. I prefer white, all cotton anklets for bed socks because while providing warmth they allow air circulation. It is important to get good air circulation to your feet to keep the dry and healthy because foot moisture encourages fungal growth.

Thermals

Thermal knit underwear is an ideal energy saver! They are a favourite for those working outdoors during the cold winter months, outdoorsmen and those enjoying winter sports. At the same time they make a great basis for indoor layering. Despite being light weight they really do help keep you warm. They are also quite inexpensive. I paid $5.99 each for the pants and top. As a child long johns doubled as pajamas on warmer winter nights and were worn under flannel pajamas on the bitter cold winter nights. I love using the two piece thermal knit underwear as pajamas because they are downright comfortable! The thermal top can double as a long sleeve shirt for day use paired with a polar fleece zippered vest (one of my favourite cold busters) or T-shirt then topped with a sweater or polar fleece buttoned shirt. On extremely cold winter days the pants can provide an extra layer that will keep you warm without being seen.

Dressing for winter even when lounging around the house will reward you with lower heating bills. Extra clothes do not need to be restrictive either. The trick really is layering as you can always take off a layer if you become too warm. You will be pleased with the lower heating costs too!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

The Ultimate in Winterizing Water Pipes

Sometimes winterizing involves closing up a house or cottage for the winter months and this is typically the time for doing that winterizing. When it comes to dealing with winterizing there really are two options available. The first is to leave some type of heat source on or use a pipe heater and hope there is no power failure. This option has the downside of costing money while the house or cottage is not being used as well as the possibility of frozen pipes that could lead to considerable damage if they burst. We had our pipes freeze at one our previous houses and I will tell you that definitely was not a lot of fun. The second option is to shut off the water and blow out the lines with pressurized air. The former owner of this house chose to put in a multi-shutoff water system so the house could be shut down for the winter months.

Multi-Shutoff Water System

Pictured is our multi-shutoff system. The green arrow is the in house water meter. When we moved in there was an outdoor sensor for reading it but they have since changed that out for an indoor sensor that they can read from the main road! This system looks a bit more complicated than it is. Basically each faucet in the house has both a hot and cold water shutoff as does the washer. Each toilet has a shutoff as does the outside water taps. Some are knows while others are levers. The top main with the red knobs is hot while the bottom with blue knobs is cold. Some of the knobs are hooked to nothing so the system can be expanded.

We are not currently using the multi-shutoff system for winterizing purposes. A huge benefit to this type of system is when we are working on anything water related we can simply turn the water off to that faucet using the centralized system. There's no need to turn off the supply to the entire house something that many do not appreciate until they have done plumbing in your home or had a plumbing problem. Basically the water is shut off to only the pipes you are working one with this system. The downside of this system and this is specific to this house is the hot water has to travel about 70 feet to get to the kitchen. Our work around for this is we are planning to install an under the counter electric tankless water heater in the kitchen to service the sink and dishwasher. This will eliminate the long run decreasing energy wastage. The water heater tank that services the rest of the house will be changed out for a natural gas tankless water heater. The tankless water heaters will end up be eco-friendly while letting us enjoy a bit more energy efficiency.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

Winterizing Electrical Switches

It is extremely important with the ever increasing cost of home heating to continuously be on guard for any points of air leakage or infiltration. Sealing these cracks and crevices achieves a few goals. First it keeps cold air out and heated air inside. Eliminating the drafts make your home feel more comfortable as well. At the same time sealing these cracks can cut off a port of entry for insects and other critters.

The Problem

Electrical boxes on outer walls are often the source of drafts especially in older homes. It is also one of the easiest to remedy for very little cost and minimal DIY skills.

Materials Needed:
- flat head screwdriver
- latex caulk
- caulk gun
- switchplate and electric out foam weatherstrip
- wash cloth
- dry cloth
- soapy water

Before starting this project turn the breaker off to the electrical outlet and test to be sure the outlet is not live. Unscrew the plate cover and remove. This is a good time to wash up the plate cover while you have it off. The area of interest for sealing is the gap around the electrical box indicated the red arrow in the left side of the picture. Brush away any loose debris then wipe the surrounding area with soapy water. Dry thoroughly. Load the caulk into the caulk gun. Seal around the entire perimeter of the electrical box (right side). Do not seal inside the electrical box. Smooth the caulk. Allow the caulk to cure according to the caulk instructions (about 12 hrs).

Winterized

These outlet weatherstrips are to be used in dry locations only and cannot be used with dimmer switches. Once the caulk is cured, punch out the die cut areas of a switchplate or electric outlet weatherstrip. Place it over the outlet. Place the switch cover on the outlet and secure with the screws. Turn the power to the outlet back on.

From outer appearances you won't notice any changes. If you check the outlet when the wind is hitting that wall you will notice the outlet is no longer drafty. If you are diligent and seal every outlet on an outside wall throughout your house you will notice this winterizing by a more comfortable house and lower home heating costs. The weatherstrip comes in a package of 10 for about $1.99. A tube of latex caulk will cost about $2 but you likely won't go through the whole tube for this project. At under $4 this project has a pay back period of under one heating season. Once completed this project will continue to provide energy savings without having to replace for a number of years depending on the lifespan of caulk you use. For example if you use a 20 year durability latex caulk as we do, you can expect this winterizing project to last for that period of time.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

Sealing Drafts

Winter is just around the corner so it's time to increase the draft sealing efforts. While draft sealing should be an ongoing project year round, catching any new air leaks as they appear it is the quickly approach heating season that serves as a reminder to get sealing. For those considering adding more insulation, sealing drafts must be your first step. The nice thing about sealing drafts is the effects can be felt immediately!

Caulk

Caulking is one of the most effective, low cost, DIY project you can do. Two tools are needed for applying caulk. A caulk gun is a must but this inexpensive tool (under $5) will provide many dependable years of service. A corner tool for smoothing the bead of caulk and forcing it a bit further into the crack is nice to have however, you can get the same results using your finger or popsicle stick.

Caulk should be applied to any joint where two differing surfaces meet such as wood and metal. It should also be applied to fill gaps between same materials such as wood window frame meeting wood window sill. It should not be used for filling cracks larger than ¼-inch. The key step is preparing for caulking is to remove any old caulk then clean and dry the surface. There seems to be a debate as to whether to push the caulk bead ahead verses pulling the caulk bead when applying. I say to use which ever method is comfortable for you. The important thing is the caulk filling the crack. There are different caulks for various applications so choose one that meets your needs.

By far my favourite caulk is Weathershield® 20 Year Duribility Acrylic caulk (1). This low odour caulk applies smoothly, cleans up with water, is paintable and remains flexible even in extreme cold temperatures. This multi-purpose caulk is ideal not only for giving that profession looking results when painting a room but also for stopping those drafts quickly and effectively. I like using Weathershield® 35+ Year Durability Silicone caulk in areas that may experience moisture problems. I've used it successfully to re-seal around where the window pane meets the frame which is often needed when dealing with older windows. This caulk is clear so barely noticeable but very effective. However, I really like using this caulk as a glue. A little dab works for this application. I use DAP® Polyurethane Waterproof Concrete Sealant (3) for sealing any exterior gaps, joints and cracks in the foundation. This masonry/concrete caulk is ideal for sealing around any wires or pipes entering through the foundation. Several years ago I discovered Lepage® Bulldog Grip® Draft-Stop® removable weather stripping (4). This is a temporary clear caulk that can be applied in the fall then removed in the spring making it ideal for sealing shut a leaky window during the winter. This is a good caulking solution for those who rent and for homeowners who need a quick, temporary solution until a more permanent solution can be found.

Insulating Foam

By far my most favourite draft sealant is expandable, insultating spray foam. There are two versions with one meant for around window and door frames that doesn't expand as much. Some manufactures distinguish the two by calling one high expanding and the other low expanding that cures flexible. This is by far one of the most useful products you can use in an older home. I keep a couple of cans of this sealant on hand all the time. Unlike caulk it can be used to fill gaps greater than ¼-inch while adding insulating value. When applied the foam expands to fill the entire gap. Once it is cured the foam can be trimmed, sanded and painted. If used outdoors where the foam will be exposed to sunlight it must be painted as UV will cause the cured foam to break down. The downside to this sealant is that if the crack or hole is filled too full buckling can occur so it's better to use a bit less until you get the feel of how it expands.

Unlike caulk expandable spray foam can be quite messy to work with. From personal experience it does not come out of clothes so wear old clothes when using and protect any furniture or carpeting. I also find it is better to use the entire can at once so this becomes a project where several spots that need sealing are identified and tagged with post-it notes then when I have enough spots to use a full can I go back and do all the sealing. Once the foam cures, I trim it with an old serrated knife then finish as needed. If indoors in an area where the foam will not be seen it can be left as is if desired but trimming will reveal if any gaps are present that may need a bit more foam.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

It's Coming

Victorian Winter

There is no doubt after the last couple of days that winter is making an entrance early this year. Heavens I have really used a lot of personal restraint to not put on the fireplace to take the chill out of the house. I'm determined to hold out to get to as close to November 1 as possible before using any heating other than solar. The cooler temperatures at a balmy 18ºC (64ºF) indoors just a little lower than the 20ºC (68ºF) we try to keep the house at during the day in the winter. The end of last heating season we discovered a way to shave off a lot of BTU by using only the gas fireplace so I really want to try using that method for as much of the month of November as possible.

We had a cooler and wetter summer that many complained of having no summer at all. It was not all bad though because we only ran the AC for 3 days and with staying home more we spent less money, getting more things done. The fall is now well into it's first week feeling more like winter than fall. Throughout the blogosphere there are warnings for those in the northwestern US states to stock up on wood and supplies for the predicted long, cold winter ahead.

I have been consistently working on caulking and sealing since we moved here just a little over 2 years ago. We are now reaping the benefits of that sealing! I continue to be ever vigilant for any drafts, sealing as soon as they are discovered. Unfortunately we did not get the sunporch rebuilt this year so we will be sealing it up with plastic shortly. The main focus of this year's winterizing is: replacing weather stripping on outer doors, weather stripping windows and installing window treatments (blinds, etc). I will be writing more about that shortly. Window treatments are not a high priority for privacy here so we simply haven't bothered with them because we like the open look. Using energy efficient window coverings will increase our energy savings lowering our carbon footprint.

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

Winterizing Project #4 - Door Snakes

Door thresholds can be chilly even if the door is well sealed and insulated. Not only does cold air fall to the threshold area, thresholds are often made of metal that is a good conductor of cold. The simple solution to this problem is a door snake aka draft stop. I prefer to not call these draft stops because ideally there will not be any drafts around the door or at the threshold.

Door snakes can be purchased to fit average sized doors. Some are plain Jane but there are some really cute ones that have faces on or are made to look like animals. However, finding door snakes for patio doors or off sized doors can be a problem. The easiest solution is to make your own. That way you will have a custom made door snake that meets your needs.

Method

This is an ideal project whether you own your home or are renting. It is one of those things you can easily take with you when you move. The first step is to measure the spot where you are putting the door snake (1). If it is an inside application as here, add 2 inches to the end plus the seam allowances to give a bit of bend to fit both doors. If the application is for a single door, measure from the edge of the trim furthest from the door. Cut a length of fabric this length and 16 - inches wide. Fold the fabric in half along the long side.

You will need a sewing machine for this project. Mine happens to be a very loved, well maintained, older Brother (2) that my Mom gave me for my thirteenth birthday. It works as well as the day I got it. The only thing that has changed is the skill of the user! Start at one open end and working along the long side, sew a seam 5/8 - inch wide (3), reinforcing at each end. Repeat along the bottom open end and up the remaining long side. Cut across from the short end to the long end about 1/4 - inch from the reinforced corners to reduce the seam bulk when you turn the tube. Turn the tube and fill leaving about 2 inches. Turn 5/8 - inch inwards. Sew the end closed.

Filling the tube is rather easy but choose your filling based on your circumstances. Dried corn, rice or peas are cheap fillers but should not be used if you have a rodent problem or a potential rodent problem. If the door snake will be in an area where it may get wet, grains my mold too. Aquarium gravel can be used that will eliminate both problems but is more expensive. I decided to use kitty litter that will eliminate any rodent problems and is less expensive but can be a slight problem if it gets wet. Drying out well should solve any wetting problems. A layer of plastic can be sewn into the tube if moisture is a concern.

Finished Door Snake

The finished door snake for a patio door is quite heavy. It is higher than a store bought door snake so it comes up higher on the door. The extra length allows for a bend for patio doors. Using the door snake is quite easy. Lay it along the doors creating any bends as necessary. Once in place, lightly kick the snake to snug up against the doors.

On an unused patio door, the door snake will not get dirty enough to worry about. At the end of the season, gather up the snake and store as is. If the snake has become dirty, you can remove the end stitches, empty and wash the covering or you can simply make a new slip covering for the snake to fit into, much like a miniature, elongated pillow case.

DIY Skills: beginner level with beginner level sewing skills

Materials:

length of firm woven fabric
filler

Garden Gnome
© 2007

Winterizing Project #3 - Window Sill Insulator

Window sills, especially wider ones, can be cool even if the window is well sealed. The reason this happens is because the window pane itself is always colder than the frame or wall. Cold air is heavier than warm air so falls to the window sill where it pools. If the window frame happens to be metal, the sill can be even cooler. On narrow window sills this effect is counteracted by using window treatments however on some windows, heavy window treatment is not desirable during the day, usually because of a great view. These include bay windows, picture windows and larger sliding windows.

Our walls are about 18 - inches thick on the lower level so we have deep window sills. We would prefer leaving those widows with the water view uncovered. We've all seen it where the homemaker tries to compensate this cooling effect by rolling up a towel or sheet and placing it along the window sill. While this can be low cost and effective, aesthetically it isn't very appealing. I came up with a simple window sill insulator that is inexpensive, easy to make and looks nicer than a rolled up towel. With care, it can be used for several years. The fabric covering is optional but I think it will protect the insulator and it can easily be changed to suit your decor.

Before (1) & With Foam (2)

Measure the area you want to insulate (1). Transfer the measurements to the sheet of foam. Draw the lines in using the Sharpie marker. Using the utility knife carefully cut outside the line. This way you will be able to make small adjustments as necessary. Fine cut along the edges until the foam fits snugly into the spot (2).

Attaching Fabric

Remove the foam and lay good side up on the wrong side of the fabric you are using . Working on the wrong side of the fabric cut around the foam leaving 3-inches on each side (3). Along each edge of the foam, fold the fabric up and secure at intervals using push pins. The corners need to have a square cut out then one side of the corner folded and hot clued before gluing the other portion of the corner (4). This eliminates too much bulk on the corners. Once the corners are secured, hot glue each short end. Then glue one long end, working from one push pin to the next and removing each push pin as the fabric is secured. Repeat along the other long end but pull the fabric slightly and secure by hot gluing (5). If you wish, you can cut another piece of fabric to fit just the bottom then secure by hot gluing but this is not really necessary. Now turn the insulator over and pop into place.

Finished Insulator

The finished insulator in place looks quite nice. I like that it can be popped in and out when needed and can be customized with other fabrics. Slight wrinkles may occur at inner corners if you have them. It will take a day or two for these wrinkles to flatten or they can be carefully flattened using a medium warm iron. If using this method you may have to weigh the insulator down for a few minutes after ironing.

DIY level: beginner level skills

Total Cost: approximately $10

Materials

1 half sheet Styrospan R 5 foam board
piece of firm material of your choice
Sharpie marker
measuring tape
utility knife
straight edge
scissors
push pins
hot glue gun
multi-temperature glue sticks

Garden Gnome
© 2007

Winterizing Project # 2 - Easy Window Cover

Many of us have a window that has no real view and the only values are air filtration or light. Often it is for light only and quite often is in a location where conventional window covering isn't quite appropriate. So what is needed is a covering that can give added insulation for the winter yet can be removed for the summer. Ideally the window covering is inexpensive and easy to install.

The Window

We have two such windows. They are good quality windows that are well sealed so could be left as is but I want a bit more insulation factor. They are at ground level meaning if we have any amount of snow they will be covered. I could not find any air leaks on either window but if you have a window like this check the spots marked by the arrows. If needed caulk these with clear silicone if wood stained or paintable caulk. On older windows check all weather stripping on the windows to be sure you have an air tight seal. Finally, lock the window to ensure a tight seal.

I adapted this idea from winterizing my greenhouse in my previous garden. This is an effective, low cost and energy efficient solution for some windows. Bubble wrap lets the light in while adding insulation to the north wall. When done properly on house windows it give the effect of frosted glass while adding insulation value. It is easily removed and if you store properly you can re-use for a couple of years. This is a project that can be adapted for any sized window.

Materials

Materials:

clear silicone caulk
latex caulk
indoor shrink window film
bubble wrap
weather tape
scissors
caulk gun
tape measure

Clean the window pane with a 1:1 vinegar solution. Dry well. Seal the window as necessary with the caulk. Cut the two sided tape in the window kit to fit the window. This should leave you enough tape to attach the optional window film if you choose. Carefully place the tape around the window. Do not remove the other protective side. Cut the bubble wrap to fit. Remove the protective side and carefully attach the bubble wrap to the tape, keeping taunt and wrinkle free. Press the bubble wrap firmly into the tape. From there you can leave as is, add a finish edging or for added energy efficiency hang a curtain if desired.

Finished

The first thing you will notice about my window covering is there is a seam. The seam is joined with weather tape. I don't mind the seam because I am likely going to be the only one seeing the window and I am using up bubble wrap left over from winterizing the greenhouse. This picture was taken after dark but during daylight hours there is the same visibility of lightly frosted glass but the insulation value is greater.

As mentioned this window is already very well sealed but if you have a leaky window and can't seal with caulk, then after the bubble wrap is installed place a layer of shrink film on the inside window trim. Shrink for clarity with the bubble wrap between the window and inside surface. This will cut any draft unless it is coming from around the trim. You now have an energy efficient, low cost window treatment that allows the light in at the same time.

DIY: a novice DIYer could easily do this project.

Garden Gnome
© 2007

Winterizing Project #1 - Creating a Windbreak Enclosure

Sheet plastic is a good way to winterize three season sunrooms, porch areas, entrances and under decks. It is an inexpensive DIY project that can save considerably on your heating costs by blocking the effects of cold winds. While this is an inexpensive, one season solution it need not look cheap. Take your time to do a nice finishing then enjoy the energy savings.

This project is especially useful for creating air blocks, keeping the cold air from cooling poorly insulated walls and entrance ways. It will not provide insulation but the enclosed area can act as a solar heat sink depending on the location. You can maximize the heat gain by adding home made solar heaters. I'll do an article shortly on how to make these yourself. The entire area need not be enclosed to get a benefit either as long as the portion where the winter winds hit is blocked. You can also modify the application for providing a wind block for problematic windows. You can add another layer of plastic on the inside of the closure if desired. This will create a somewhat sealed air enclosure giving a little insulation value. One roll will be enough for applying for two or three years. You will need to use a fresh application but the plastic from the previous year can be used as drop cloths or recycled in other ways. Material, tools and method follow.


Interior Before & After

Our house is a two level, semi-earth bermed house on waterfront property. The first level enclosed sunporch faces west, spans almost the entire upper west wall and covers the lower level open patio. We suspect there is little insulation in that wall that will be corrected when we renovate the sunporch. We wanted to use this room for entertaining as a smoking area during the winter months. At the same time we wanted to preserve the view (1) but want to wait until spring before we start any renovations on the sunporch. So we really wanted a temporary, inexpensive winterizing solution.

We enclosed all three sides of the sunporch including the door on the outside. Once the plastic was up (2) there was a small effect on the view but for the most part it isn't intrusive. We may put a second layer of the plastic inside that would affect the view more if we feel it will help. Essentially this was installed as an effective windbrake to prevent the cold winds from hitting the upper west wall. This wall will get the late afternoon sun so the space will provide solar heat gain for that area. The patio doors leading to the sunporch can be left open during sunny spells allowing the heat into the upper level.

Outside

The plastic (green arrow) was installed around the outer three walls of the sunporch using a staple gun. The door was covered separately so it could still be used during the winter months. Once the plastic was secured, strips of 1" x 2" (red arrow) were screwed around the perimeter of each wall of the sunporch. This will prevent the plastic tearing from the staples during higher winds and give the plastic a finished look.

The overall effect was immediate. It was a very windy day when the guys were on ladders installing the plastic. The games room opens into the sunporch via patio doors. Just by blocking the wind, the games room warmed up even though the furnace wasn't on. However, the real effect came when the sun hit the sunporch. We opened the patio doors to let the free heat pour into the house. As the temperature drops we will be able to enjoy the free solar gain and energy savings.

DIY: A novice DIYer could complete this project.

Materials:
1 roll medium mil clear plastic
1" x 2" x 8' wood strips
1 ¾" screws

Tools:
utility knife
screw driver (cordless works nicely!)
ladder (depending on location)
hand saw
pencil
tape measure

Garden Gnome
© 2007

Winterizing Begins

Snow Over the Water
February 2, 2005

Beautiful scenes like this will be common here shortly bringing with them howling winds, below freezing temperatures along with snow, ice and higher energy bills. The ADFF has passed and while we haven't had a frost yet, the air has turned cold. We have had the gas fireplace on a couple of times to take the chill off the family room so it won't be long before we have to put the furnace on. This photo was taken a couple of years ago at our old house. The house had virtually little wind block, was poorly insulated and received the full force of the north winds. A lot of winterizing was needed to make the house as energy efficient as possible. This house is well protected from the wind, is partially earth bermed and in general a much sturdier, better sealed house that appears to be fairly well insulated. This house benefits from the cooling effects of the water in the warm months and will also benefit from the warming effects of mainly open water in the winter. This will be our first winter in this house so I've already been busy looking for and sealing air leaks.

The heaviest canning season is almost finished. The pantry is well stocked as are the freezers so I will be able to focus on winterizing both indoors and outdoors. My husband will winterize the vehicles and boat which is being lifted out of the water the week of the twenty second. We will be removing lawn furniture and garden decorations. These will be cleaned then stored. We are debating doing the same for the solar lights as they not withstand the freezing temperatures. This is the time of year when it is very important to make sure bird feeders are kept full to encourage the birds to return to your gardens the following spring. We will also be mulching and making necessary preparations inthe gardens for the cold weather.

Why should we winterize our homes? Winterizing is an important way of getting the most for your energy dollars. It makes our homes more comfortable as well. The main energy savers are to insulate, caulk, weatherstripping, replacing old windows and replace old heating systems with energy efficient ones. Do check for rebates and grants if you need to replace your furnace, air conditioning or major appliances. The Home Energy Retrofit Program (Canada) offers a maximum $5000 grant on qualifying purchases. Natural Resources Canada lists details and links various rebates and incentives for selected Energy Star® qualified products in Canada. For one reason or another these may not be possible especially for those living in rented accommodations or those on fixed incomes making it difficult to keep the rising energy costs in check. Landlords in particular often frown upon tenants making permanent changes even if they will help save energy. This is where winterizing can help, Winterizing involves more than the basics to make your home more energy efficient. They tend to be frugal DIY projects and versatile projects that improve your home's energy efficiency. Many of the winterizing projects can be used in rental units as well. They can be taken with you if you move making them ideal.

Windows can present several problems that result in thermal heat loss even if they are energy efficient sealed double pane. The first step of course should be stopping all air leaks either by caulking and/or weatherstripping or using the popular shrink plastic. The second step is creating a barrier to thermal heat loss through the window pane itself. This is where you can have a little fun! Doors can also give a cold zone at the threshhold even if they are insulated and properly weatherstripped. Patio doors can be worse at thermal heat loss because of their large expanse of glass. I'll be making a few posts over the next couple of weeks with some easy to make, inexpensive sewing projects that I will be using for our windows and doors. I also have a couple of easy DIY, inexpensive non-sewing projects for windows. So check back over the next couple of weeks for these projects.

Garden Gnome
© 2007